Formulating Guidance Chart/U-Makeitup

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Formulating Guidance Chart

The chart below is a guide to what you can formulate with mineral makeup ingredients and in what ratios they can be used.

 

Can Be Used To   Formulate

Usage Recommendations In Formulations

      Properties

Notes

 

 

 

 

 

 Titanium Dioxide

 

 

 

 Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

Concealers/Correctors

Eyeshadows

Lipsticks

 

 

 

 

 

 Up to 25%

 

 

 

High Coverage

High Adhesion

Good Absorbency

Natural UV Protector

Anti-Inflammatory

Matte

Lightening Agent

Sticky Slip

As a lightening and    whitening ingredient you may want to start lower in percentage terms and work your way up until you reach your desired target.

An important ingredient used in  most formulations in varying ratios for its light scattering properties and   ability to absorb UV rays (a product can not make claims about SPF factors unless it is tested and certified by the appropriate regulatory authorities) and of course it is an anti-inflammatory powder with high adhesion. Its benefits are numerous and no formula would be complete without the addition of such a useful powder. It has a sticky slip so the addition of powders with good slip would always be added to compensate

 

 

 

Zinc Oxide BP

 

Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

Concealers/Correctors

Eyeshadows

Lipsticks

 

 

 

 

Up to 15%

low/Medium Coverage

Medium/High Adhesion

Good Absorbency

Natural UV Protector

Anti-inflammatory

Anti-bacterial

Matte

Low/Good Slip

Not as high coverage as Titanium Dioxide but will still whiten your formula. An excellent ingredient for its calming and healing   properties, particularly those prone to acne and rosacea. Zinc Oxide also helps with protecting against UV rays, you've seen the cricketers with parts of their face covered in white strips - that's Zinc Cream protecting from the sun. Of course we don't quite want to go that far, so best to start formulating in lower amounts and work up but a great additive to a recipe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sericite Mica and Silk Mica

 

 

 

 

 

 Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

Concealers/Correctors

Eyeshadows

Lipsticks

Body Dusts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Up to 50%

Silk Mica

Translucent

Medium-High Adhesion

Low Absorbency

Reflects Light Well

Lustre

Good Slip

Sericite Mica

Semi Translucent

Good Adhesion

Low Absorbency

Reflects Light Well

Matte

Good Slip

Mica is used in quite large proportions as a main filler in many formulations. Both of our Micas reflect the light well, reducing the appearance of pores and expression lines, giving the skin a more youthful appearance.

Silk Mica has a higher particle size which makes it a more translucent powder with a higher lustre. When used in formulations it will give the skin a radiant glow.

Sericite Mica has a lower particle size making it a slightly higher coverage powder than the shimmer and is matte in appearance. A preferred choice out of the two micas for those with very mature skin and a high proportion of expression lines as sometimes high sheen powders can accentuate expression lines.

 

 

Satin Silk Mica 

 

Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

Concealers/Correctors

Eyeshadows

Mineral Veils

Body Dusts

 

 

Up to 40%

Low Coverage

Good Adhesion

Good Absorbency

Semi Matte

Very Good Slip

 

Makes a great addition to many powder formulations as it is an anti-coagulating bulking out powder. Very soft and silky.

 

 

 

Kaolin Clay

 

 

Foundations

Blushers

Concealers/Correctors

Eyeshadows

 

 

 

     Up to 40%

 

Medium-high Coverage

High Adhesion

High Absorbency

Matte

Very Good Slip

This is a creamy textured powder which draws out impurities and toxins from the skin and its mildly disinfectant qualities will help heal any inflammation. It is often a component in face masks and although it absorbs oil it will not draw it out of the skin making it a   suitable ingredient for those with normal, dry, oily or mixed skin.

 

Mica-Coated with Carnauba Wax

       

       Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

       Eyeshadows

 

    Up to 50%

 

Medium Coverage

Good Adhesion

Good Absorbency

Very Good Slip 

Blends well with other powders and adds a creamy consistency to any formulation, it is especially good in pressed powders. For those with dark skin tones, this is an exceptional ingredient, as it does not leave the skin looking ashen as some of the other powders can do. 

 

 

Silica Microspheres

Lipsticks 

Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

Eyeshadows

   

   

     Up to 15%

 

 Very Good slip

 Reflects Light Well

Very silky, soft semi-translucent powder that will reflect fine lines but does not offer much coverage, therefore it should be used alongside a powder with good covering abilities should you wish to formulate a high cover product. 

 

 

Rice Starch

 

Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

Mineral Veils

Body Dusts

   

 

     Up to 100%

Low Coverage

Good Adhesion

Good Absorbency

Matte

Good Slip

Reflects Light Well

Up to 100% as  some formulators like to use this on its own as a primer or veil. Use at much lower percentages in formulations

Blends exceptionally well with other powders due to its unique structure. It will also create a velvety, creamy, mattifying effect on the skin. Is particularly useful in mineral veils and   works well applied as a primer before your foundation

 

 

 

Silk Powder

 

 Eyeshadows

       Foundations

Bronzers

Blushers

Mineral Veil

Body Dusts

 

 

 

Up to 100%

 

 Low Coverage

High Adhesion

High Absorbancy

Natural UV Protector 

Anti-Bacterial

Anti-Inflammatory

Matte

Very Good Slip

Reflects Light Well

 

 

Up to 100% as it can be used on its own as a primer or veil. Use at much lower percentages in formulas

Containing 18 amino acids, this super soft powder is a natural moisturiser aswell as an oil absorber. It is unique in that it is suitable for all skin types, particularly those prone to acne as Silk Powder has both anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It reflects light well diminishing those expression lines and will go a long way in any formulation.  It also makes an amazing mineral veil or primer either on its own or in combination with other powders of your choice due to its high adhesion capabilities. A little goes a long way

The ratios in which you use your powders will differ from one person to another depending on which product you are formulating, your skin type, and the coverage that you want (sheer or full).

You may choose to use only a few powders or many powders, there isn't exactly one formula that will suit all, just different formulas for different skin and preferences. Your recipe will be individually tailored to suit your skin using the base powders of your choice - it doesn't get much better than that.

One thing is for sure, there is no substitute for practical application, so even though you may feel a little like you are suffering from information overload right now, once you actually start experimenting and formulating, everything will fall into place.  Before you know it, your makeup bag will be overflowing with the most amazing natural cosmetics and even more amazing is that they would have been made by you - so enjoy and above all have fun creating!